Thursday, October 30, 2008
Friday, October 3, 2008
it's a girl
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I arrived in the US on Friday and have already Skyped Alexa and talked to her twice. I don't think she realizes she's not going to see me for a month, she asks me to put on Elmo and the Backyardigans like I can come right out of the screen and do it.
Since we're effectively back in DC now, I'm going back to my original blog at:
http://www.rockwoodsindc.com, or you can get to it at http://www.vanessarivera.com/wordpress/
The savvy blog reader will notice that the date in the above picture is '04, and cannot possibly be our baby, or can it? In any case they all look the same at 2 inches.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
no summer for T
Alexa loves playing with her bucket and shovel and me carrying her in the shallow waves. Her other favorite game is pretending she's a baby and being carried around wrapped in a blanket and fake crying until we put her in bed and turn off the lights. Then she stands up and screams "mas baby!!!" and really cries until we do it again. For my last week we're doing what we always do, eating and sleeping and trying to keep Alexa entertained.
Looks like I'll have to wait until next time to see Cuszco, Machu Picchu, the jungle, lake Titticaca, Cajamarca, Ayacucho, Cohuasi Canyon, etc, etc, all of the millions of things there are to do here if you have the time and the money. I got to know Lima fairly well, and saw some places I hadn't seen before and definitely want to see again. Peru is really an adventure tourist's paradise.
We bought two pictures for Alexa's room from a famous Peruvian artist whose family is friends with Vanessa's family. She is in her 20's and is severely mentally handicapped. When she was young her parents gave her paint and paintbrushes as a part of her therapy and she's been painting like a prodigy ever since. You can see her work here: http://www.veronicapacheco.com. She came over to our house and
In other household drama, the two parakeets in our family (to the left) who we hang out our 8th story window have been getting attacked lately by a hawk. He sits across from them on a tree and then swoops down and attacks their cage and they fly around like crazy, but so far nobody has gotten hurt. Other times I hear flapping, and come out expecting to see a bloodbath but it's only doves that are trying to steal their food. Yes, this is as exiting as my life gets in Peru.
Below is a video of Alexa chasing pigeons in Barranco.
Sunday, September 21, 2008
Red light green light
First of all is the ingrained class system that puts people with white skin at the top, and people with dark skin that look like natives at the bottom, regardless of their education level. It's way worse than the middle east, it's horrible. They don't even try to hide it.
To the right is a picture of a park next to our house with two huge people making out.
Second will be the driving. I've driven in some crazy places, both in the US, Europe and the Middle East. Egypt, for example has no system or order to the traffic, and you always have to be on your toes or you'll get run over by a taxi, a mule, or herd of goats, but the people are pretty good drivers, and a system of org
The picture of the paraglider was taken right outside our house, they go ba
Third will be the pollution, and visiting relatives. It's not that I don't like going and visiting relatives, but in Peru a dinner visit is a 6-8 hour affair. You arrive at 2 or 3 for lunch, then you wait until about 5 until they actually start cooking, then you eat and are expected to take a nap in one of their beds, and then continue eating and hanging out until 10 or 11 or so. It's an all-day affair, and when you have stuff you'd rather be doing, like being in your own house scratching your bum, it get's to be too much. I will miss the food in Peru though.
We haven't done much outside of naps, nursery and eating. We did go to a wild bird refuge on the outskirts of town and took a little boat around a swamp. Alexa is talking more and more and is always doing something funny. She's in the making faces stage. She is also obsessed with spices, and makes me take her to the spice rack every five minutes. She has about 10 of them memorized by smell, and I let her sniff the cap and she'll say "paprika", or "cumin", etc. She also won't go anywhere without a funny red duck marionette that has to walk in front of her at all times.
Friday, September 5, 2008
The year of the potato
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The stand below shows the average variety available at the local market. You'd probably guess that Peru produced a lot of potatoes, but you'd be wrong. They mainly
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As a family we went to the circus the other night and Alexa was mesmerized by for two hours straight, which was like a vacation. She also saw Barney and was in complete shock for about 5 minutes and couldn't take her eyes off him. She is getting into her terrible two's stage where everything is about what she wants, and when she wants it. She's speaking more and more and regularly mixes spanish and english so that I'm sure nobody at her nursery understands her.
Please eat a potato in celebration of this glorious year and think what kind of life we'd all live without them...
Thursday, August 28, 2008
Lima at last
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Speaking of colonial Lima, I couldn't help taking a picture of the sign where we ate lunch - they offer not only an Israeli breakfast (which means that it includes a half a avocado), but also a Colonial breakfast. Coming from the middle east where the term "colonial" is equiv
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In any case I picked up Alexa in the car after her nursery and we drove to the old part of town and saw some impressive churches, one of which houses the grave of Francisco Pizarro (the original colonizer himself), who with 180 men and 37 horses defeated the entire Inca empire of millions. And a big church with catacombs under it housing the bones of unlucky former monks who not only had to live a boring monastic life, but whose bodies can't even rest in (one) peace. They've arranged the bones by type, so there's a room full of femurs, a room full of skulls, vertebrae, etc.
We also saw Lima's Chinatown, complete with an arch and everything, and Alexa had her face painted like a cat, and then ran after the pigeons in one of the main squar
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This last picture is some of us with my Dad up at his cabin in Brighton (Vanessa, Alexa, Lauren, Lila, Eliot, and Keno Keith). It was a beautiful day and I miss that kind of sunshine here. Every day is just a giant misty mist, like a dense London fog. Today I went walking in the wet mist on the beach below the cliffs in front of our apartment and found a dead dog that had washed up on shore. He was a real mutt's mutt. There were a bunch of surfers in the water and I'm sure they must have bumped up against it while they were surfing.
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Thursday, August 14, 2008
Clay's Wedding
I just got back from my brother's Clay's wedding in Utah, and of course I have to post a really cheesy short video, it's too tempting not to.
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There was a gorgeous reception at a farm in Mapleton that had a lake with boats and there were horses and mountains and stuff. Clay and Aria are now on their honeymoon in Ireland and the rest of us have scattered back to our various places of residence across the country(s).
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On the one hand it's nice to be back in Peru where I have my own place and some control over my situation again, but on the other hand it isn't that fun to be so far away from all of your friends and relatives for such extended periods of time.
I'm really happy for my brother though that he's found the love of his life - their marriage is the culmination of knowing each other and dating on and off for nine years. I wish them the best together.
Friday, August 1, 2008
Huaraz
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It's streets are full of adventure guides and mountain climbing equipment stores full of grungy die hard European and American climbers and trekkers. There are also a bunch of Israeli tourists and is the only place I know of outside Israel where you will see signs in Spanish, English, and Hebrew.
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There was an earthquake in 1970 that killed 70,000 people across the region and flattened or buried all the houses, so the towns are now nothing to look at as they are all hastily build cement and brick structures, it's mainly the setting that's pretty. In one nearby town, Yungay, 25,000 inhabitants were all killed in one blow as the quake launched a 100 ft wall of snow, rock, and dirt that came down the mountain at 300 mph and completely buried everybody. They never dug anything up and it is now a national cemetary people go and visit.
We tried to get out and do as much as we could with a baby, which ruled out about 80% of the activities, however we did hire a guide to take us rock climbing one day (that's Vanessa to the right) and took turns playing with Alexa while the other climbed. We did some scenic driving, saw a glacial lake, saw some pre-inca ruins at a place called Chavin, and visited some hot springs which we promptly left after seeing how dirty they were.
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Although it is winter, this part of the Andes falls in a tropical zone, so while the tops of the mountains maintain about -40 degrees year round, in the valleys it stays in the 70's and 80's all winter (in the summer it rains all day). At night it gets a bit nippy, but during the day we were in short sleeve shirts and shorts.
The people here are all speak Quechua and Spanish and wear the traditional clothing and the food is really tasty - although I didn't try the roasted guinea pig or llama. Vanessa accidentally ate a peice of an andean pepper and almost started crying it was so hot, so I showed what a baby she was by eating the whole peice - which I sorely regretted for the next hour.
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To the left Alexa spotted a roasted pig in a wheelbarrow that people were pulling meat from and eating and kept pointing and saying "piggy", "piggy" and wanted to pet it. She also kept wanting to pet the llama below and I had to hold her back when it started making a hissing sound and getting ready to spit or something. I think llamas spit.
Anyways, now we're back in dismal Lima, and I'd love to go back sometime and do some more of the outdoor activities there, so if anybody is reading this and they also think it sounds fun, please come and join me.
Tuesday, July 22, 2008
This blog would be less boring if my life was
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Alexa is growing and speaking more and more and has developed her own mini-language. It takes time to understand, but it has a system and it's own rudimentary grammar. It's a mixture of Spanish and English, so every noun takes the definite marker "la", as in "la papa" and "la mama". "ayi" (a derivative of the Spanish for "there") is the action verb, as in "la fishy ayi" = I want to see the fishes, or "ayi la mama" = take me to mom. As far as I can tell it's both a SOV (Subjet Object Verb) language as well as a VOS. "tu" (spanish for "you") is
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My entire family is at a reunion on the Oregon coast that I wish I could be at, but the financial situation on a Peruvian income is tight and airline prices are ridiculous. To get the whole family up there would have cost 3k, which is like 6 months income in Lima.
I am itching to get out of Li
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I thought the sign to the left was funny - you usually name streets after something you are proud of, but then maybe Peru is proud of the Inquisition.
Thursday, July 10, 2008
I'm a Weiner
One cool thing here that I think the US should adopt is grass advertising. Most public spaces with grass, like parks, the grass on the side of the highway, etc, advertise using different colored plants and grass to make company logos and spell out thier slogans. What better way of making useless public space pay for itself? And the cost of planting a few shrubs is ch
Speaking of walking around, we have found some great markets for both fruits and vegetables, a healthy/hippy market, and markets that sell com
For the 4th of July we went to a gringofest out in the desert put on by an American/Canadian association where there was a petting zoo for the kids, some bar-b-eque, a campaign booth for Obama, and some horrible American rock cover bands. Alexa loved feeding the animals, I liked watching her feed them, and Vanessa won a silent auction for a 3-day trip to Cuzco. Hopefully one of these days we'll actually get out of Lima and get to use it and see the real Peru, which looks great in the pictures.
Friday, July 4, 2008
Milk in a bag
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But enough complaining. I've started Spanish classes in the mornings while Alexa is at nursery in a class of three Japanese, one Italian and a Russian. I've also
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I've joined the local climbing gym and have gotten to know a few people who will take me climbing in a few weeks once it's warmer. It's a small gym with a bunch of regulars. The thing I like about climbers is that they're the same everywhere you go and I tend to get along with them from the first moment I meet them. They all have funny nicknames and were all surprised to learn that I went by my actual name.
On the baby front, I've accomplished something completely amazing - tonight I put Alexa in bed, read to her the four books we have to read before bed, and then turned out the light and left. Why this may not sound amazing to some, she has slept in bed with us from the moment she was born until I arrived in Peru three weeks ago, and in those three weeks I have step by step weaned her away from our bed, her mother's milk at bedtime, and sleeping next to someone. There were a few rough nights, but as I sit and read in total silence at 10Pm and stretch out in my now-roomy bed it was all worth it.
Vanessa is working from home now, which is nice - taking me from total isolation in Syria to family overload. This week we went to Vanessa's grandmothers birthday party and spent the evening with all of her aunts, uncles, and cousins which was a good time as well as some good food. The first week of August I'll be going back to Salt Lake for my brother Clay's wedding and hope to see some friends there if the time permits.
Wednesday, June 25, 2008
The Olympico
The Chinese influence in Peruvian food is one thing that gives it an edge - (warning, history lesson ahead) Peru was the first south American country to outlaw slavery (in 1854), and consequently had to import the cheapest labor available at the time - Chinese peasants (which is true today as well, for that matter). So now there are third and fourth generation Peruvian Chinese and their food has worked it's way into the cuisine. One of my favorite desserts are deep fried churro sticks with cinnamon sugar on them, filled with warm chocolate pudding, and served with a steaming cup of hot fudge to dip them in. I can't help but ask, why is Middle Eastern food so lame? They've had three times as long to perfect it and they've barely moved beyond dry pita bread and beans.
I take Alexa to her nursery in the mornings and for the few hours she is being entertained there I do what I do best, wander the streets getting t
She also had her first trip to the dentist's torture chair and had to have some teeth cleaned, which she did not like. They gave her a pill that was supposed to calm her down but it didn't work. We also went to a new water fountain park in downtown Lima with some fountains you can play in, others that put on a show like the Bellagio, and others that spray water everywhere and they play movies and laser shows on them. It was pretty cool, but I miss-stepped on one fountain and got a jet of water straight in the gut. Then one fountain you walk through this tunnel of water and Alexa freaked out and almost had a nervous breakdown. It was pretty traumatic for both of us, I think we'll stay away from there for a wh
The weather is wet and misty and pretty dismal, but the coldest it gets is around 65 degrees, and while people walk around in big winter jackets Vanessa wears flip flops and I wear a t-shirt or sweatshirt.
I hear that most of my collegues that studied Arabic with me in Syria are not finding it too easy to find a job, even being some of the most advanced Arabic speakers in the country. Nobody wants to give them a clearance after they've lived in Syria - even though it was the government that sent them to Syria in the first place. Hopefully things will look better when I start searching next year. In the meantime I've found a Palestinian woman in Lima married to a Peruvian and will meet with her twice a week for conversation so as not to fall behind the curve.
Tuesday, June 17, 2008
Back together again
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The last two weeks were fun but started to stretch out as I ran errands in DC and caught up with old friends and quickly got re-adjusted to expensive life the US. I did some yard work in my house and almost cried to see how my garden looked after a year of neglect. It was good to see the Reynolds and eat some organic pizza with them, and I had for the first time in one year some Root Beer - it was heaven in a bottle. I also went up to New York and saw Ash, Brian and Eliot, who is doing great and liked to do the running-man to Michael Jackson songs. My friends the Hammonds and I met up and we ate some soul food in Harlem (not much else to do there).
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I then arrived late at night at the Lima airport to a man with a sign with my name on it who didn't know where he was supposed to go. I barely remembered where Vanessa lived from three years ago and finally arrived at midnight to find both of them waiting for me.
The picture to the right is where the apartment is, one of those buildings on the left in the distance. Compared to Damascus Lima really seems super-deluxe. Of course it still has that comfortable 3rd world feeling, but is much more modern and clean, and has a more American influenced style, as well as American brands and stuff. It's nice to be back in the familiar arms of globalization.
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The plan is this: I'll eventually start looking for part-time work (as we do have a nanny), I'll find out what's up in the climbing scene (I already know there are three rock-climbing gyms in Lima), I'll try to find a Spanish class and learn some Espanol, and I'll seek out the few Arabic speakers in Lima (there must be at least a few) to keep up on my skills. The picture to the left shows a paraglider gliding right by where we live, there are a lot of them that hover back and forth over the coast in the perpetual sea-breeze and offer rides to the tourists for $10.
Below is Alexa puckering up after eating her favorite treat - raw onions with lime juice. She puckers up and shudders every time she eats one and then keeps on going.
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